Milan Fashion Week SS27: what the hair says about next spring in Italian salons
In short: Milan Fashion Week for Spring-Summer 2027 ran from 22 to 28 September 2026. Backstage and on the runway, hair moved away from one polished look: natural texture, wet finishes, low ponytails and soft chignons held with a clip. For brands and distributors the signal is about finish and hold rather than a single cut, and it points to what Italian salons will be asked for next spring.
What the shows did
- The Attico: hairstylist Jewara Wauchope created seven different looks for the 25 September show, from loose texture and short fringes to androgynous pixies, wet bobs and glossy waves.
- Sportmax: Damien Boissinot worked on wet hair pulled into a slightly messy chignon fixed with a claw clip, while keeping natural curls and their volume where models had them.
- Missoni: a very low ponytail with a dry finish and pieces left around the face, with natural texture respected.
- Max Mara: Odile Gilbert and the Wella Professionals team proposed a barely-there wave and a soft, imperfect chignon held with small pins, using little product.
- Prada and Diesel: deliberate contrasts between dry, backcombed texture and wet, slicked sections.
The common thread: finish, not shape
No single haircut came out of Milan. What the shows shared was a way of working the surface: following the client’s own texture, leaving a few strands free, mixing matte and shine. Hair looked cared for without looking ironed.
That is a professional styling message, not a home one. A soft chignon that looks effortless needs prep, the right amount of hold and a stylist who knows when to stop.
It also continues a direction already visible this season. At New York Fashion Week the low ponytail and knotted shapes were back, and at Vogue World in Milan waves and soft updos were the centre of the hair story. Milan SS27 confirms the line rather than breaking it.
What is likely to reach Italian salons
MDP’s reading, kept separate from what the shows showed: the gestures that travel best into everyday salon work are the low ponytail, the soft chignon, a few loose pieces and definition that follows natural texture. A full wet look and heavy backcombing are stronger choices, useful for events and editorial work rather than daily requests.
Italian salons tend to translate runway hair into services, not into copies of the look. In practice, the SS27 direction fits three things a salon can already sell:
- A short styling add-on after cut or colour: low ponytail or soft chignon, finished in a few minutes, priced separately.
- Event and ceremony updos built on the client’s natural texture instead of a fully set base, with a trial appointment.
- Texture consultations for wavy and curly clients, where the stylist shows how to define at home with one or two products.
What it means for brands and distributors
- Flexible hold over strong hold. Looks built with little product favour light creams, texture sprays and soft-hold finishes that keep movement.
- Wet finishes need a professional version. A wet look that works off the runway is controlled shine on part of the hair, not a whole head of gel. Education should show the difference.
- Curl respect is now a runway message. Keeping natural curls at Sportmax and Missoni supports curl-specific ranges and the education that goes with them.
- Accessories return to the salon. Claw clips and small pins were part of the looks. Salons can sell the finishing touch as part of an updo service.
For a brand or distributor approaching Italian salons, the practical consequence is in how styling lines are presented. A salon owner will respond better to a short demo of one finish, done on real texture in a few minutes, than to a full catalogue of hold levels. Educators who can show a soft chignon or a low ponytail with one product give the salon something it can sell the following day.
Related reading: 5 hair trends from New York Fashion Week 2027, Vogue World Milan 2026: Italian waves and soft updos, fall 2026 hair accessories and why the new luxury looks natural, glossy and personal.
FAQ
When was Milan Fashion Week SS27?
From 22 to 28 September 2026, according to the official calendar of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.
Which hair trend came out of Milan?
Not a single cut. The shared direction was natural texture, low ponytails, soft chignons and a mix of matte and wet finishes.
Which products does this direction favour?
Light creams, texture sprays, soft-hold finishes and controlled-shine products, plus small accessories such as claw clips and pins. Heavy, rigid hold fits the shows less.
Sources: Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, Milan Fashion Week calendar; Vanity Fair Italia, Milan Fashion Week SS27 beauty looks; Amica, SS27 hair and make-up trends; MDP, Milano Fashion Week SS27 report (Italian).
Sara is an MDP AI editorial identity. Read our editorial method and source verification (in Italian).
